Wednesday, April 18, 2007

The Other Side of the Road, The Bottom End

I showed my proof of license, hoping I wouldn’t be denied, and offered up my credit card information for a deposit. She smiled and had me sign on the dotted line. The weather was turning sunny and I hoped it would remain. It was early last Friday morning and as I was handed the keys to my rental for the weekend, I hoped that I wouldn’t make a fool of myself. They drive on the “wrong” side of the road, the left side, here in New Zealand.

I tossed my backpack into the car, put the key in the ignition and calmly re-assured myself that I could handle this. I turned off the radio and watched the traffic. I started the engine and began to move the vehicle ~ a little mazda four door. Much to my dismay, the car grunted a bit and I paused. Maybe this was a bad idea. Claire, the friendly gal who helped me with the paperwork, started out the door and I nervously rolled down the window. “You’ve got the parking break on. I’m sure when you take it off it will go smoothly!” She chirped and smiled. The parking break? This is an automatic! Why would you put the parking break on when I’m clearly on level ground? Yikes. I took the parking break off and nervously made my way towards my first intersection. I looked left, looked right, looked left again, looked right again. I inched forward. Check both ways again. Waited for a car to pass. Looked again. Finally, I pulled out. I was on my way on the other side of the road. Yippie! Let’s hope I’m able to handle the “round about” coming up in town.

I successfully navigated my way through the little town of Oneroa without much traffic. I headed towards Ostend, where they have a lovely market on Saturdays with fresh produce, locally produced goods, books, and other knick knacks. After arriving safely at the market and parking, no small feat for me, I padded myself on the back and enjoyed perusing the market. I didn’t stay too long or buy too much, I had a 10:30 am appointment to keep at Connell’s Bay Sculpture park.

Connell’s Bay Sculpture Park is located in Connell’s Bay (duh!). Connell’s Bay is part of the island called the “bottom end.” The roads are “unsealed” aka unpaved out this way. Needless to say, it is no where near as populated as the other part of the island. I headed out that direction, being sure to give myself extra time since I was driving “like a nana” as my friend Kim from work would say. I carefully drove my way there and almost drove by Connells Bay. Jo Gow, one of the owners and also a shareholder at Cable Bay, met us at the top of the driveway. The Gows are private art patrons, it is not the tax-haven in NZ that it is in the US Jo explained she is only able to deduct $200 a year from her taxes for all of the art support they give in the community. The tour of the sculpture park is on the Gow’s private property and is fantastic. Most of the artists are NZ artists and the sculptures range in materials, inspiration, and location. Jo escorted us on the walk through the property and explained to us about the artists and works as we moved through. It took us about two hours. At the end of the lovely tour, you are brought back to the small gallery space for more info, and some additional pieces of art by the artists on display. I really thoroughly enjoyed the tour and can’t recommend it enough. The views were fantastic as well, but being a complete airhead left my camera in the car at the top of the driveway. So, no pictures of this lovely experience.

After I was finished at Connells Bay, I continued exploring the bottom end. Of course, there were some vineyards I stopped into. These will probably be the last vineyards I visit on Waiheke, as I’ve basically been to almost all of them. The ones I haven’t been to either told me there was nothing to see or their wines were produced under a different label. First off was Passage Rock Estate. Passage Rock Estate had a lovely line of wines. Their vista views was not my favorite and Nadia who worked in the tasting room told me all sorts of things she’d heard about Cable Bay – most of them not the greatest. Ahh well.

Moving along to Christensen Estate, Julie who is one of the owners gave me a tasting. She was full of information and extremely friendly. Her husband Basil, her daughter, and herself only live on the island on weekends since they work in the city during the week. This “project” is to provide them with something to do and income for when they “burn out.” Quite a lovely plan. They are a very small vineyard producing a premium Merlot which is also on CBV’s wine list and a “feather white.” Their feather white wine is made from merlot grapes like a rose, but its properties of color and flavor are closer to a white wine than a rose. I bought a bottle, at $18 NZ it was more affordable than their Merlot ($44) and quite interesting. I enjoyed it and liked the unique-ness of it. Or at least the sound of it because Julie was a successful lady with sales … They also produce olive oil, which is typical of vineyards. It’s easier and less fuss than wine.

The bottom end also held my first encounters with sheep – be sure to check the photo album. I’m told they are everywhere, but I hadn’t seen any up close until my trip to the bottom end. The views were fantastic and I enjoyed my adventuring around. Another “must see” of the bottom end is Stony Batter. Stony Batter is a city park reserve and historical site. The rocks that developed here are lava-volcanic rocks and litter the hills beautifully. The historical piece comes from the “secret” fortifications that were built up here in WWII. With the help of the Americans, the kiwis built some tunnels and gun encampments. Waiheke is further out in the harbor than Auckland, and was meant to protect in case of Japanese attack. NZ was never attacked during WWII and they fell into disrepair. Now they are a bit crumbling, but you can still go through them. I found the entire place fascinating and when finish the walk, you can climb up and out and have a marvelous view of the entire Hauraki Gulf. It was stunning. You do have to walk a little bit to find the little museum, which is staffed solely by volunteers, but its worth it.

After a long tiring weekend adventuring around the island, I successfully survived driving on the wrong side of the road. The rental was a total rip off, but one couple owns both rental companies and there really isn’t a way around the monopoly. I did manage to loose a hub cap on the way and have to pay $25 to replace that. Arrrgh…. Another weekend, more money spent.

The Bottom End


The Bottom End

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